From Šembije above Ilirska Bistrica, take a hard-left turn onto the gravel road ascending along a karstic field. Once you reach the plateau below Volovja Reber, park your vehicle and follow the paths across the lush meadows to the top of the ridge. Velika Milanja is but a short walk from there. But first lay down into the grass and observe the sky. You might just spot an imposing visitor from the islands of the Adriatic – the gryphon vulture!